Fellow blog readers, I introduce to you the best Tommy Hilfiger collection yet. He is back to his original “golden age of rock and roll” aesthetic and everything is good and calm now! To be honest, the old preppy phase was kind of awkward to see in Hilfiger’s collections and I couldn’t be happier he’s back to his old look.
NYC’s Park Avenue Armory was transformed into a late sixties set to show the SS15 collection that’s already gotten so many people preparing their wardrobe wish list for music festival season! The day was complete with custom-vinyl invitations, live drummers playing rock and roll classics, and a beautiful whimsical floral runway set. The opening looks came straight from The Beatle’s Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band album artwork, as Hilfiger created a scene of stars and stripes, patriotism, America etc. that was all fitting for his original rocker style in his signature red, white and blue palette.
So, how did the designer stage his own version of a rock-music festival? The process started a couple of months ago back in July when Hilfiger sat down with Randall Peacock, (his long-standing set designer) and started figuring out how to translate the 1960s vibe of the clothing collection and the vernacular-look of festivals, while still remaining contemporary. The team had most definitely expressed this very well.
Hilfiger and Peacock chose two themes as inspiration for the September 8th show: the cover of the Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band album and the modern-day music festival. “It was a challenge to convey the energy of a festival, but make it even more magical than the actual reality of a festival,” Peacock explained. Obviously, this notion if pulled off well, would be an amazing site to see-which it proved to be.
Over 1,000 guests entered the Armory to find a venue fully decorated with 130,000 hand-placed fresh flowers! The greenery was dotted with multicolor flower beds, and “Hilfiger” was spelled out in turquoise carnations. Flowers shaped like stars paid homage to the Sgt. Pepper graphics. (The inspiration was clearly seen, which helped and didn’t hurt in this particular collection)
The models walked to a 1960s and ’70s soundtrack (including the Beatles and a few Rolling Stones songs) in styles inspired by the same era respectively. This includes staple pieces from the era: capes, extra-long scarves, Sgt. Pepper–military-detailed jackets, faux-fur vests, hippie-chic printed dresses etc. etc.
The centerpiece however was a sight to see to say the least, and makes me wish I was there to see it live! The music festival–caliber stage was complete with a towering proscenium arch (the part of a theater stage in front of the curtain.) and faux-painted curtains that framed two live drummers. They were backlit by shimmering electric stars:)
Rows of lightbulbs were strung from flag poles and ran the length of the runway. The scale and complexity of the temporary set, obviously “required a sizable production crew to start work on Thursday night for the Monday-morning show, and the frantic weekend construction even included a few all-nighters.”(architecturaldigest.com)
But Hilfiger succeeded in creating a joyous time capsule, none the less.
Naturally, if Hilfiger went all-out with the stage, the clothes proved to be up to par with the scenery just as well: “I’ve had a dream of doing a full collection of rock-style clothing for a very long time now. People don’t really know me now for my love of music—the Beatles, the Stones, Hendrix, the Who—so I thought I would celebrate my passion, my beginnings, my roots,” said Hilfiger at a preview interview.
We all know that Hilfiger is a huge fan and appreciates the rock-and-roll fashion mood—most recently popularized by Hedi Slimane though…she debuts a collection at the right moment in terms of mainstream appeal. But to be fair, let me just say that Tommy was into this look long before Hedi, and he made quite an amazing American aesthetic for the look. So, it’s really no debate in which designer is the rightful owner of real rock and roll design!
Hilfiger’s main goal for this season? He aimed to keep the look authentic. (Not as easy as it sounds) Models were covered in hand-painted tattoos walked runway in a patchwork denim looks (sorry, didn’t include the denim looks in this review, go see the whole collection at Style.com!) and colorful faux furs.
Easily, some of the looks can come across as a bit too costumey—several of the girls even wore electric guitars on their backs! To quickly afresh the main pants this season: the ultra-slim until the knees before kicking out into flares…um yeah whether we like it or not it is basically without a doubt that flares are emerging as a key silhouette this season. (You will be missed, skinny jeans!)
One unique take the label took on was a shiny vinyl fabric. Hilfiger explains that “Back then, a lot of people couldn’t afford real leather, so they’d buy patent and then weather it down themselves.” Other modern takes on classic late 60s looks included sequined concert T-shirts, and metallic Chelsea boots:)
Surely separates were prominent in the collection,
with little to no dresses. They were decorated with rows of gold buttons, collars, and accented stripes, all topped with matching military style hats. Tailored vests paired with flared pants and long skinny scarves all appeared in patchwork denim and pinstriped metallics. Many variations on the essential black motorcycle jacket were the stars of the show. However, some really cute playful oversized faux-furs make their way down the runway as well!
As a quick nod to the hair in this collection, it’s notes of to mention how it was kept long and loose, with kohl-rimmed eyes to match and temporary star tattoos on wrists and ankles. Hilfiger’s SS15 girl is grunge, confident, and ready to go wherever the music takes her! The brand really succeeded with the looks, as they stood out even with the very out-there stage.
As a notable mention to models that made it down the runway:
it was surely no coincidence that the first model to hit the runway was none other than Georgia May Jagger-daughter of ’70s icons Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall. She started off the collection, opening the show in a regimental stripe cape and matching short shorts. Love!
Oh, and let’s not forget the most Instagrammed model of
Fashion week this year: Kendall Jenner! She proved her model status in a pair of barely there short shorts, before reappearing in an ethereal capelet gown cut from a beautiful navy chiffon.
I couldn’t have thought of anything that would have
made this collection better than it already was! What do you all think of this collection? I would love to hear what you think in the comments below:)